Sonoma County: Twisted Horn Ranch

 

“That big one is Rocky, he was our first!” Kristine Beck, our host, points to the tan Longhorn bull just outside the window of our bunk house.  He weighs about a ton and is nearly as tall as Kristine’s rancher husband Dave. If his twisted horns were straight they would stretch 3 metres wide. I swear he’s smiling at me.

My 13-year-old’s eyes widen when Kristine tells us that Neva and Willy, her two Quarter horses, are around the back. She invites us to join her to feed them carrots.

“Mum – this place is so COOL!”

 

 

 

 

I have to agree. We’re staying at Twisted Horn Ranch in West Sonoma County. It’s a small family owned cattle ranch just an hour north of San Francisco. It well exceeds expectations set by its AirBnB listing (it’s so hard to photograph!)

The bunk house sleeps 5 and is a roomy 2 bedroom 1 bath self-contained cute apartment on the ground floor of the main Ranch House. It’s open air, with gleaming wood floors, a gourmet kitchen with a huge American-sized washer and dryer. The apartment is squeaky clean and trendily decorated in a vintage rustic California look. But the best bit is the deck area outside the large glass French door. Comfy lounge chairs sit next to a lush grass lawn and bore court that overlooks a pasture with their longhorn “pets”.

In addition to Rocky, there’s Henrietta and her daughter Chi-Chi (named because of her petite size). Chi – Chi is a heifer (female that have not had babies yet). She’s 9 months pregnant and may give birth while we are here.

 

 

 

Twisted Horn Ranch isn’t just a name, it’s a working cattle ranch! Escaping the high-tech world, owners Kristine and Dave started it 11 years ago. They now have 60+ steer and sell their organic grass-fed beef, rent accommodation and also offer foodie classes. When we are there, there’s a How to Make Clam “Chowdah” class taught by local chef Jodie Rubin, which includes a trek out to Tomales Bay to dig your own clams! 

After our tour of the Ranch, we settle down to start our stay. Kristine has left fresh farm eggs in our fridge with local milk and butter. All the fixings for a great breakfast. She’s also given us a little of the beef to try, which I am very excited about, though when I suggest we use some to put on the Tostadas I had planned for the evening, my 13-year-old protests. She’s fallen in love with the gentle Rocky.

 

 

My 13-year-old’s perspective

There were 3 Longhorn cows and they were called Rocky, Henrietta and Chi-Chi. Kristine gave us food so we could feed them by hand, which was really cool. They were really gentle and don’t bite because they have bottom teeth but you need to watch out for their horns! There were 2 horses and we feed them carrots. They were very friendly and liked being stroked.

 

 

I sit down on one of the lounge chairs with a glass of pale yellow Somona Chardonnay and read about the ranch and surrounding area. Staying at the Ranch is an adventure. We’re reminded it’s a country setting – so there’s uneven grounds and always some kind of ranch work going on (feeding animals early or late or a neighbour on a tractor preparing lands for planting). This all adds to the excitement. The ranch is self-sufficient – with its own well, septic and power systems.

The only animal they don’t want us to pet is Stix, their Jack Russel Terrier. “Just tell him to go home” because he seems friendly but may growl. Apparently it’s a terrier thing.

Meanwhile my girls are in ranch heaven. I am loving it too because we are in Sonoma, one of my very favourite California counties. It’s a real foodie/wine area with so much to do. Neighbouring Napa is a bit more shiny and polished. Sonoma is wild and rugged where you can talk with the cheese makers or have dinner with the ranchers. It’s also got the coast.

Having Twisted Horn Ranch as a base, you can visit Tomales Bay, foggy Bodgea Bay (think Alfred Hithcock’s The Birds), Jenner-by-the-Sea, and then head inland on the Bohemian Highway to the Russian River.

Below are my suggestions of places to visit in Sonoma County.

 

 

Day 1: Head out to Bodega Bay. Sonoma Driving Tours has a great Bodega Bay tour you can download to your phone and follow along at your own pace. Stop at Doran Beach, a 2-mile stretch of sandy beach which is great for families. Park by the whale statue then build sand castles or fly a kite. 

Then drive north towards Jenner-by-the-Sea. There are several scenic beaches to stop by only the way including Carmet, Schoolhouse and Portuguese. Don’t miss Goat Rock Beach, one of my favourites. The Russian River flows between it and Jenner. You might find some jade or see harbour seals.

 

 

 

Next drive over the bridge into Jenner. Park by the Sonoma County visitor center and have an organic latte or avocado on toast at Café Aquatica, which has a wonderful outdoor seating that over looks where the Russian Rivers meets the Pacific Ocean. You can rent a kayak from Suki at Water-treks (across from Café Aquatica).

The head inland on 116 to Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. 116 is also called the Bohemian Highway with retro townships and lots of folk art. Johnson Beach is a Russian River tradition and is a favourite summer spot for locals. It’s a throw-back to the 70s. You can rent umbrellas, beach chairs, pedal boats and inner tubes or visit the snack shack for a root beer float, orange freeze or snow cone while listening to Bad, Bad Leroy Brown. Adults can get artisan beer or local Chardonnay. Head back via 116 to go through Occidental (hungry stop by Union Hotel) and Freestone.

 

 

My 14-year-old’s perspective

Johnson’s Beach was a very scenic beach on the Russian River. It’s a pebble beach with clear water and there are big redwood trees in the background. I would recommend bringing a floatie and water shoes (the rocks can hurt your feet). We got a snow cone from the snack shack. My mum loved the 70s music!

 

 

Day 2: Drive up to Healdsburg and start your day at Comstock Wines! Its the ideal place to enjoy the beauty of Dry Creek Valley and try the distinct varietals that thrive in Sonoma County. While you enjoy a private tasting of six of your favorite wines the kids can play Boccee Ball or Corn Hole. Then get one of their picnic baskets and settle down in their beautifully landscaped picnic area. 

Next put the picnic away and drive 5 minutes to Russian River Adventures to kayak down the river. A half day tour takes about 2 and ½ hours. Wear lots of sunscreen and bring some drinks in a cooler. Finish off your day in Healdsburg with dinner at Bear Republic Brewery.

 

 

 

 

 

Days 3: Head south through Tomales Bay and into Point Reyes Station. Stop at Cowgirl Creamery to view cheese making (free tours on Fridays, but hurry they fill up quickly) and pick up some Mt Tam and crusty bread for a picnic. Then go to the Palace Market, make a b-line to the deli counter and order some Double 8 Diary Water Buffalo soft serve gelato. Seriously the best thing that will cross your lips.  Head out to the Lighthouse, or if you are driving back to San Francisco, stop at Stinson Beach along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Read my post: 21 things to do with the family in Sonoma County! (coming soon)

 

IF YOU GO:

Twisted Horn Ranch 11399 Valley Ford Rd, Petaluma, CA 94952 +1 (707) 664-8650 http://www.twistedhornranch.com

Sonoma County https://www.sonomacounty.com If you are thinking of visiting Sonoma County, this web site should be your first point of call 

Sonoma County Driving Tours Bodgea Bay https://www.sonomadrivingtours.com

Café Aquatica 10439 CA-1, Jenner, CA 95450 +1 (707) 865-2251 http://cafeaquatica.com/

Water-treks Eco Tours 10438 CA-1, Jenner, CA 95450 +1 (707) 865-2249 http://watertreks.com/

Johnson’s Beach 16215 First St, Guerneville, CA 95446 +1 (707) 869-2022 http://johnsonsbeach.com/

Comstock Wines 1290 Dry Creek Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448 +1 (707) 473-8027 http://www.comstockwines.com/

Russian River Adventures 20 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, CA 95448 +1 (707) 433-5599 http://russianriveradventures.com/

Bear Republic Brewery Co. 345 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, CA 95448 + (707) 433-2337 https://bearrepublic.com/

Cowgirl Creamery 80 4th St, Point Reyes Station, CA 94956 +1 (415) 663-9335 https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/

Palace Market 11300 California 1, Point Reyes Station, CA 94956 +1 (415) 663-1016 https://palacemarket.com/