Riad Asrari: Gorgeous and authentic Riad in Marrakech!

 

When in Marrakech – stay in a Riad!

One of the things you must do when visiting Marrakech is stay in a Riad! Many of these old homes in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Medina area have been lovingly restored by their owners and turned into small boutique hotels.

Built in the 17^th century for the rich merchants of Marrakech, Riads have thick cooling walls and are centered around an open courtyard. As the merchants got richer, they built floor upon floor, adding rooftop terraces with views across the Medina. Outside, the maze of narrow pathways – not wide enough for cars, but perfect for bicycles, mopeds and donkeys – give rise to tall terracotta-coloured buildings. But open the beautiful wooden carved doors and inside Riads offer a peaceful oasis away from the crazy medina. They are gorgeous and are full of original intricate details, like colourful handcrafted tiles, marble fountains and decorative mouldings.

 

 

 

 

Riad Asrari

But which one do you choose? There are literally hundreds. I recently discovered the 4* Riad Asrari, a gorgeous and authentic 5-room boutique hotel in the old Bab Doukkala area of the Northern Medina. Riad Asrari is brimming with personality and very near to the Souks and easy walking distance to all the major sites, including D’Jemma al Fnna Square and Jardin Majorelle.

The French owner is very friendly and responsive and has hired an equally personable staff. Abderrahim (manager) and Adel (night manager) will help you find the right souk, restaurant, hammam or day excursion. They are locals and know Marrakech like the backs of their hands – so all recommendations come with a very good map and verbal instructions. The verbal instructions include landmarks (in our case the small car park, the bigger car park and the Pharmacie Popular). There are lots of arches in the instructions too. You need very good instructions because the medina is crazy and you will get lost! The maze of streets is mind-boggling. Plus there are pesky mopeds zipping around by the hundreds. We had some close encounters, but weirdly the moped drivers must have a 6^th sense because several came within a few inches with no collisions.

 

 

 

Chill out after discovering the crazy medina

But back to Riad Asrari. After the crazy hub-bub of walking around the Medina, Abderrahim or his wife Nezha (the cook) will open the heavy hand-carved cedar door and welcome you to the peaceful inner sanctuary of this completely renovated 17^th century traditional home. On the ground floor the reception area leads to an open tree-lined courtyard build around a fountain with two pet tortoises lazing around (ask Nezha for some lettuce to feed them). There are lots of places to just chill out –  including an inviting sitting area and an “English lounge” with Chesterfield sofas and polo inspired decor. There’s a small kitchen in the corner (where you can usually find Nezha baking Moroccan pastries for the next morning’s breakfast) and the Japanese Suite (where I stayed). The next level has the other 4 rooms, all named after their décor (Indian, Mexican, Moroccan and the African Suite.) One more flight of stairs up is a sun-soaked tiled rooftop terrace with lounge chairs and stylish patio furniture. There’s a traditional Kaidale tent where breakfast and private dinners are served. Dotted throughout the 3-story building are several seating areas, including a traditional outdoor bhou, an arcade lounge and patio.

 

 

 

 

Individually decorated rooms

Riad Asrari has 5 individually decorated rooms. The owner loves travelling and has picked up artifacts throughout the years. There are two Suites – Japanese (on ground floor) and African (1st floor), which are larger version of the rooms (Indian, Mexican, Moroccan). All have windows with views onto the courtyard and are gorgeously decorated with tiled bathrooms and are very clean. There are individual safes and air conditioning (extra charge) and heaters for the cooler winter nights. There are no televisions, but very good WiFi and lots of books in different languages.

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Moroccan tea and biscuits

Each afternoon we had Moroccan mint tea and home-made Moroccan pastries on the rooftop terrace. Tea is elegantly served, in a traditional silver pot and poured from on high (to make a froth) and you can add your own sugar. The pastries are all traditional and were different each day. Nezha makes them herself and the smell of freshly made baked goods often wafts throughout the riad.

 

 

Breakfast on the rooftop terrace

Breakfast is 8 – 9.30 on the rooftop terrace in the Kaidale tent. Everything is homemade by Nezha! She makes brioche, Begharire, made with semolina and has small air bubbles that are good for butter and jam (like a cross between a crepe and a crumpet). Msemane are like which crepes There’s fresh squeezed orange juice and strawberry and fig jams. Rezha even makes homemade yogurt! Hygiene is top of mind here, everything is super clean.

 

 

 

 

Traditional Moroccan dinner on the terrace

If you just want to have a quiet night in the riad, and don’t want to risk the hygiene of the streets of Marrakech,  Nezha can cook you a private dinner which is served on the rooftop terrace of the Riad. She cooks traditional Moroccan food using her grandmother’s recipes, picking up fresh produce from the daily market. You can pick from have Couscous (which is HUGE) or a traditional Tajine (beef, chicken or vegan) with Moroccan salads and vegetables, oranges with cinnamon and orange flower water and Mint tea with Moroccan pastries. If you stay here you MUST do this at least one of the evenings.

 

 

 

 

Cooking class

If you order dinner, you can have a cooking lesson with Nezha. Join her in the kitchen and she will show you how she prepares the meal as you look on. She doesn’t speak English, but I learned quite a lot about how a traditional Moroccan meal is prepared just by watching her. Now I can properly make Couscous! (Add oil first, and then aerate with your hands several times!). I can’t wait to try out my newfound skills.

 

 

 

 

Peaceful atmosphere

Riad Asrari  is off a quiet back street so you don’t get traffic noise. In the morning and evenings when outside you can hear a few roosters crowing or the occasional clip-clop of a donkey going by. There is a Mosque very close by and you can hear the call to prayers 5 times a day. I found that very peaceful and soothing. 

The Riad does not have TVs! Instead there are loads of places to sit back and relax and enjoy a book. There’s also good wifi.

All in all it’s a very authentic experience – refined but very friendly and like a home away from home. I feel like I found a home in the Medina. 

 

 

 

 

 

Central location in the Media

Riad Asrari is in one of the oldest areas of the Medina. It’s 5 minutes from the Souks and about 15 minutes (once you know where you are going!) to D’Jemma al Fnna Square. Jardin Majorelle and 10-minutes to the Marrakech Museum and  Ben Yourself Madrassa (note it is closed for renovation for the next couple of years)

 

 

 

 

 

Tips for staying at Riad Asrari

• Have the Riad arrange your taxi to and from the airport (about a 20minute journey). So much easier than haggling plus the driver will walk you straight to the riad (you need this!). You pay direct to the manager, not the taxi driver though I gave him a small tip.
• There are 2 larger suites (Japanese and African), and 3 smaller bedrooms (Mexican, Indian, Moroccan). All sleep 2. The Indian room can be accommodated with mattress to sleep 3.
• The Riad only accepts children 12 and older. If you are a couple of families, you can “buy out” all the whole hotel for a reduced price – just ask!
• Book a traditional Moroccan meal to eat on the rooftop. If you book a meal and are keen to learn how to made Moroccan food, Nezha  the cook will show you how! She doesn’t speak English, but we learned a lot just by watching. Highly recommended.
• Book a private hammam/Turkish bath with massage. The riad will make a reservation for you at the heritage Spa, just a 10-minute walk away. (you pay at the spa) 45 minutes Hammam + traditional body scrub with black soap and kessa glove + Ghassoul body mask with 7 plants.
• If you want to hangout at a swimming pool, many hotels will let you use their facilities for a day fee. Ask for a list. Or check out my things to do in Marrakesh post.
• If you get a Henna Tattoo, ask for plastic wrap to cover it while you sleep – so you don’t stain your clothing or the bed sheets!
• You get a big bottle of water on your first evening. You can purchase more from the Riad for 2.50 Euros, or pick up a bottle in the Medina on your way home (about 5 dirhams, about 50 cents). Do not drink water from taps anywhere in Morocco!
• The night manager Adel is very good with his maps and directions. Make use of that knowledge! 

 

Watch our Video: The Modern Family goes to Marrakech!

 

 

IF YOU GO

Riad Asrari http://www.riadasrari.com  42, Derb Derdouba, Arset Ihiri, Marrakech Medina 40000, Morocco +33 2 35 36 91 51

Jardin Majorelle Rue Yves St Laurent By A-Maps، Marrakesh 40000, Morocco http://www.jardinmajorelle.com

Yves Saint Laurent Museum Rue Yves St Laurent, Marrakech 40000, Morocco +212 5242-98686 https://www.museeyslmarrakech.com/en/

Cafe Árabe 184 Rue Mouassine, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco +212 5244-29728 https://www.cafearabe.com/en/

Cafe Majorelle (in the Garden Majorelle) Rue Yves St Laurent By A-Maps، Marrakesh 40000, Morocco http://jardinmajorelle.com/ang/visiting-the-garden/

Heritage Spa 40 Arset Aouzal Rd, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco +212 5243-84333 http://heritagespamarrakech.com/