Sometimes you just have to get away with the girlfriends. No kids, no dinners to prepare – just a little self-indulgence and delight.

Our weekend trip to Montreuil-sur-Mer was long in the making. One of my friends had visited the Michelin-starred La Grenouillere and raved about it. It’s chef, Alexandre Gauthier, is a bit of a rock star in the foodie world. He caught the eye of President Obama after serving him local Licques chicken at the Paris COP21 conference. Then in 2016 Gauthier was named France’s top chef by Gault et Millau Guide – in some circles this trendy guide is even more prestigious than Michelin.

My friend went on to say it wasn’t the pretentious and overrated “experience” you can get in some of the UK’s top restaurants (not naming names but seriously do you need to serve a meal with an iPod piping in the sound of crashing waves). Plus La Grenouillère is nearly half the price of somewhere like the Fat Duck (oops, I named names). Then I saw this video and just had to try it!

So yes we planned our weekend around a meal at La Grenouillère! In fact, Montreuil-sur-Mer has a reputation as “La Destination Gastronique!” There are lots of foodie shops in the main Square, an awesome Saturday market and very reasonable restaurants and bistros with top notch food. And if you tire of eating (is there such a thing?) you can explore Cote d’Opale. PLUS all of this is just under an hour from the crossings and the locals even seem to like English speakers (at least they tolerate them!). I started to wonder why I hadn’t visited Montreuil-sur-Mer before.

 

 

Want to visit Montreuil-sur-Mer? Here’s what to do:

We booked a ferry crossing instead of the Channel Tunnel. This was purely because it was a busy weekend and the overnight fares were taken and the ferry was £100 cheaper. It actually turned out to be a masterstroke of genius. We showed up a bit early at the terminal, were put on the next ferry, and went straight to La Brasserie, the upscale restaurant.  The two course lunch easily got us through the 1 and ½ hour journey, especially after going to the viewing deck and taking some photos of those famous Dover cliffs! The restaurant gives you space to relax out of the hustle and bustle of the innards of the ferry. Very civilised.

Next up: Drive the 1 hour to Montrueil-sur-Mer (only 45 minute from the Channel Tunnel). Check into your accommodation (see below for suggestions), then go for a walk along the medieval Ramparts, built to protect the city from invaders. A note of warning: if you bring small kids hold them tight or they may fall over wall, which is 40 metres in some places! This walk was on my favourite parts of the trip –  there are gorgeous, sweeping views over a poplar-filled valley. We saw lots of people picnicking and young couples holding hands.

 

 

 

 

What to do in Montreuil-sur-Mer

Then do a little shopping in town. We popped into Lanroba, a textiles shop with gorgeous bath and kitchen goods, Fromagerie Caseus (over 250 cheeses!) and Boulangerie Patisserie Gremont, where I saw the most gorgeous cakes, tarts (get the Mirabelle) and other pastry treats.

Walk back passing Saint-Saulve Abbey, which occupies the site of an ancient monastery dedicated to Saint Walloy, and the Citadel, build on site of royal castle built by Philippe Auguste in the 13^th century.

Back to hotel. Get ready for dinner. Walk to La Grenouillère, which is 10-15 minutes along the La Canche river. I say walk, but it’s a bit of hike so wear comfy shoes and carry your heels. La Grenouillère really is amazing and not to be missed (read my full review of La Grenouillère here). Taxi back (or walk, but bring a flash light!). There’s only one taxi driver in town, Kristoff, please tell him hello for me!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then sleep in, but not too late because the market is finished and packing up by 1 pm. Have coffee in bed, enjoy an amazing French continental breakfast at your B&B, and then head out to the Saturday market.

It’s worth reading Tim’s list of his favourite market stall holders. I haven’t introduced Tim yet, he’s the local English eccentric who runs the gorgeous Maison 76 Bed and Breakfast, and is the force behind La Destination Gastronomique. A fan of the finer things in life, he knows all the best places to go, including Sophie Leviel, aka the “cream lady” who normally has the smallest stand but the longest queue and Les Mains Noires, the organic supplier of choice for many of the town’s restaurants. I was told he sells out quickly, so I went there first and was rewarded with baby artichokes, shiitake mushrooms, courgette flowers, and green garlic. We capped our shopping spree off with a visit to the artisan Chocolats de Beussent to pick up “Orangette au chocolat” – candied orange peel covered in dark chocolate. I had never had these before and now think I’m addicted.

Tip: If you plan on buying food top bring back with you, bring a cooler so that the items that need refrigeration stay cool and fresh! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped by Maison 76 to say hello to Tim and ask for lunch recommendations. He suggested we go to Le Clos des Capucins, in the town square. Le Clos des Capucins is an example of why I fell in love with French food. It’s a non discreet bistro that doesn’t look like much from the outside, but the food is amazing and affordable. We ordered from the prix fixe menu and had Grilled tomatoes, mozzarella and basil (the heirloom tomatoes looked like the ones I had admired in the market and the mozzarella was fresh, delicate and soft. I also love a “café gourmand” – espresso with small dessert. Ours came with hot madeleines straight from the oven. Thank you Tim for the recommendation!

If you want to continue the Alexandre Gauthier thing, you could check out his other restaurant “Froggy’s” and have lunch there in the courtyard. It’s quite popular so book beforehand.

We didn’t make a stop to buy wine, but if I did there is La Cave de Montreuil and Vinophilie next to Chateau de Montreuil.

By now we were very full and promising ourselves we wouldn’t eat again for a whole year. So before catching the ferry, we got off on A16, and took a walk along the gorgeous Cap Blanc Nez (the white nose). This reminded me a lot of the California Coast, and some of the scenic walks there. It’s hard to believe England is just across the channel!

I obviously could eat another thing, because once we got on the ferry the lure of one last meal and peace and quite away from the masses was too great and we went straight for La Brasserie. 

How did my family cope without me? It helped that I brought lots of treats home. Youngest daughter, 13, declared the Mirabelle tart “amazing” and my 14-year-old is now a fan of Sophie’s fresh goats’ cheese. Now I just need to figure out the next time I can go back!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where to stay

 

Maison 76 

Absolutely gorgeous period B&B in a renovated 18th century former Alchemist building. 4 rooms each with their own bathroom, Nespresso machine and milk in the fridge. Honour bar stocked with French wine and cake on tap. Plus the friendliest proprietor I’ve met in years. Families can take over the whole house and he’ll cook for you!

La Tannerie de Montreuil

Reasonably priced Gite with unique decoration. Good prices and 15-minute walk to La Grenouillère. Some rooms better than others so check it out beforehand. The breakfast was amazing.

 

 

IF YOU GO:

La Grenouillère 19 Rue de la Grenouillère, 62170 La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France https://www.lagrenouillere.fr

Maison 76 6 Rue Pierre Ledent, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 60 85 08 49 https://maison76.com/

La Tannerie de Montreuil – Gîte, Chambres d’Hôtes 7 Rue de l’Église, 62170 Montreuil, France http://www.la-tannerie-montreuil.fr/en-us

Boulangerie Gremont 28 Place du General de Gaulle, 62170, Montreuil-sur-Mer, France

Fromagerie Caseus 4 Place du Général de Gaulle, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 06 50 88 https://www.facebook.com/fromageriecaseusmontreuil/

Le Clos des Capucins  46-48 Place du Général de Gaulle, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 06 08 65

Froggy’s Tavern  51 Bis Place du Général de Gaulle, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 86 72 32 http://www.froggystavern.fr/

Chocolats de Beussent 10 Place de Darnétal, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 86 39 30 https://www.choco-france.com/en/

La Cave de Montreuil 11 Place du Général de Gaulle, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 06 93 68 http://www.lacavedemontreuil.com/

Vinophilie, 2 Rue du Grand Sermon, 62170 Montreuil, France +33 3 21 05 05 51 http://www.vinophilie.com/