Family Guide to the French Ardennes
In the north-east corner of France, between Champagne and Belgium, lies France’s greenest department! The Ardennes is all about nature – a third of the Ardennes is covered in forest. Plus the gorgeous Meuse and Semoy Valleys and their rivers make a natural outdoor playground. The Ardennes is perfect for families that like to explore the great outdoors – cycling, hiking, canoeing, kayaking, riding, sailing and zip-lining are all readily available at reasonable prices.
In addition to outdoor activities, there are charming towns and villages to visit. The largest is Charleville-Mézières, which has earned the name as the puppet capital of the world because of its bi-annual Le Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes. Sedan is famous for having one of the largest and most impressive castles in Europe – Chateau fort de Sedan. Kids will love that they can spend the night in the fortress.
And of course it’s France and the food is fantastique! The cuisine in Ardennes is simple and very good. Created to fuel workers and tradesmen, local gastronomy is known for its sausages and cured hams. To go with those, Ardennes also has craft beer, which is making a comeback in the region.
I recently went on a press trip to the area. Check out my guide below which has suggestions on cities to visit, and where to eat, stay and what to do in this quiet corner of France.
Ardenne or Ardennes?
Ardenne is the forest region which is shared with Belgium and Luxembourg. Ardennes refers to the French bit.
Getting to the French Ardennes
The Ardennes is northeast of Paris and by the Belgian border. You can easily reach the region via car, high-speed TGV or plane.
- Drive: Around 3.5 hours from Calais to Charleville-Mézières
- Train: 2 – 4 hours either via Paris or Lille on Eurostar
- Fly: Nearest airport is Charleroi in Belgium
- Here’s a detailed map of the French Ardennes
Cities to visit in the French Ardennes
Charleville-Mézières
This small pretty town is the capital of Ardennes, and is on the banks of the Meuse River. Ancient Meziers (on the other side of the Meuse) joined with the “newer” Charleville (created in 1606 by prince Charles Gonzaga) in 1966. It’s a great base to stay and visit the region, with lots of shops, restaurants and a train station.
What to do in Charleville-Mézières
- Stroll through Place Ducale, a gorgeous square inspired by Paris’ Place des Vosges in Paris.
- Visit the Musée de l’Ardenne, to see objects from early times, 17th century models of the town, and of course puppets!
- See Le Grand Marionetteiste clock. Every hour from 10 am – 9 pm gather in front of the museum (7 Place Winston Churchill) to enjoy a giant puppet show that portrays a local legend.
- Have the local specialty la galette au suc’ aka “Sugar tart” in one of the many patisseries such as Maison Billiard
- In Mézières – see the stunning stained-glass windows in the 15th century basilica Notre-Dame d’Esperance (made by a friend of Picasso)
- Time it right (every other September) and catch the World Puppet Festival!
Where to stay in Charleville-Mézières
Le Dormeur du Val ****
This 4-star hotel in a former warehouse is named after one of Rimbaud’s poems! The building was a former printing press, and a writing / printing theme runs through the hotel. The lobby is decorated with tables made of printing press letters. The rooms are brightly coloured and funky. There are lots of thoughtful details to make your stay as comfortable as possible: Real hair dryers, bath salts, face cloth gloves, bedside control for lights, heating, and blinds, and Mini Mars bars on your pillow at night. Beds are very comfortable. Nice breakfast and a relaxation area with a Turkish Hamman and sauna. Very clean. Highly recommend.
Where to Eat in Charleville-Mézières
Restaurant Sel et Poivre
Right around corner from Le Dormeur du Val, Restaurant Sel et Poivre is one of those French restaurants everyone wants to find. It’s a family-run out-of-the-way restaurant with just a few tables. The restaurant serves regional specialties from locally sourced food. There’s an open window to the kitchen so you can see – and chat – with the chef! Try the Ma Mer Yvette aperitif (French version of Sangria) and the Salad au Lard – a local specialty made from bacon, lettuce and egg – served warm!
La Table D’Arthur
This brassiere located in a cellar is amazing – probably the best restaurant in Ardennes, according to Trip Advisor. One of two Michelin Bib Gourmand in Ardennes, the chef takes traditional Ardennes dishes and updates them with local produce and beautifully presents them. It has knowledgeable, friendly staff – and some even spoke English. Hallelujah!
Maison Billard Boulangerie
This is where to try local sweets such as the “Sugar Tart” or Ardoise, the chocolates in honour of slate, which is found in abundance in the region.
Near by: Restaurant Le Pont de Chute
Prefect lunch or coffee stop after a morning canoeing on the beautiful Semoy river! Sit outside and admire the view and fuel up before going on your next Ardennes adventure.
Sedan
Found in the 1400s, Sedan was asylum for Protestant refugees from the religious wars, and later became a centre for high quality textiles. The city is most famous for having one of the largest and most impressive castles in Europe, Château fort de Sedan. Build in the middle ages, it is a whopping 35,000 square meters, it could house 4,000 troops. Some of its walls are 27 meters wide!
What to do in Sedan
- Take a tour of the castle
- Stay in the castle at Hotel le Chateau Fort
- Visit the centre for Architecture and Heritage (opening 2019)
Where to stay in Sedan
Hotel le Chateau Fort ****
Whatever your age, it’s exciting to spend the night in a castle. Hotel le Chateau Fort is located in the impressive grounds of Northern Europe’s largest castle. The hotel lives up to its four stars – with regal rooms, comfortable beds and an elegant restaurant with classic French waiters. There are even some strange noises at night to make your wonder about the castle’s 1,000 year history!
Where to eat in Sedan
Restaurant L’Echiquier
Elegant restaurant with stunning views of Sedan castle. Make sure to book because it fills up quickly. Good value too, if you choose the tourist menu.
Restaurant la Tour D’Auvergne
You can’t beat this for convenience. Restaurant located on the 3rd floor of Hotel le Chateau Fort. Seasonal menu with “fresh products and novel preparations”, with traditional French waiters. Order the mille-feuille if on the dessert menu.
Other cities to visit
Rocroi, Mouzon, and the southern Ardennes should all be on your list to explore.
French Ardennes: Suggested activities
- Canoe down the Semoy river. This excursion company organises water sports along the Semoy river. Hire a canoe and glide down the beautiful Semoy river, with your option of stops. Easy paddling and Very reasonably priced as well.
- Cycle the Trans-Ardennes path (the road book of the Trans-Ardennes cycle path. Between Charleville-Mezieres and Givet is an old towpath that has been repurposed for cyclists, walkers and horse riders. 83 km trail 80 km route https://fr.calameo.com/read/000023007da5e731d9404 and rent a bike in the Ardennes brochure: https://fr.calameo.com/read/0000230079788f68bf25c
- Zipline Fumay at Parc Terraltitude zip wire that goes from 225 above sea level to 100m over the river.
- Swim, windsurf, sail at Lac des Vieilles-Forges and family friendly leisure parc with a wide lovely sand beach and café.
- Visit The Rock at 7’O’Clock
- Visit an Artisan Brewery
- Take a selfie at Woinic.
the Ardennes, Nature et Aventure map (40 outdoors attractions):https://fr.calameo.com/read/00002300712c8b42acdc5
Tip: Get the Tourist Pass which allows you to visit up to 10 attractions in Ardennes for the price of 5. http://gb.ardennes.com/home/discover/our-networks/ardennes-tourist-pass
Watch my video: French Ardennes for Families
Read my post: 13 things to do with families in the French Ardennes
IF YOU GO
Ardennes Tourist Board http://gb.ardennes.com
Restaurant Sel et Poivre, 12 Avenue Forest, 08000 Charleville-Mézières, France +33 3 24 55 71 16
La Table D’Arthur, 9 Rue Pierre Bérégovoy, 08000 Charleville-Mézières, Fr +33 3 24 57 05 64 https://www.latabledarthurr.fr
Restaurant Le Pont de Chute Chambres d’hôtes 12, grande rue 08800 tournavaux +33 0324298014 https://www.le-point-de-chute.com
Nautik Evasion Water sports along the Semoy river. Hire a canoe and glide down the beautiful Semoy river. Easy paddling and reasonably priced. http://www.nautik-evasion.fr/
Lac des Vieilles-Forges http://www.ardennes.com/accueil/decouvrir/les-incontournables/lac-des-vieilles-forges
TERRALTITUDE 77 Rue J Baptiste Clément, 08170 Fumay, France +33 3 24 57 57 59 https://www.terraltitude.com
Musée de l’Ardenne 31 Place Ducale, 08000 Charleville-Mézières, France +33 3 24 32 44 60
Maison Billard Boulangerie 4 Rue de l’ Église, 08000 Charleville-Mézières, France +33 3 24 33 35 27 https://www.maison-billard.fr
Le Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes http://www.festival-marionnette.com/en/
Château de Sedan Cour du Château, 08200 Sedan, France +33 3 24 29 98 80 https://www.chateau-fort-sedan.fr
Hôtel le Chateau Fort, Porte des Princes, 08200 Sedan, France +33 3 24 26 11 00 https://hotel-lechateaufort.fr
Restaurant la Tour D’Auvergne (on 3rd floor Hôtel le Chateau Fort) Porte des Princes, 08200 Sedan, France +33 3 24 26 11 00 https://hotel-lechateaufort.fr/restaurant-la-principaute/
Brasserie Ardwen 20 Avenue Roger Ponsart, 08430 Launois-sur-Vence, France
+33 3 24 35 46 50 http://www.ardwen.fr
Woinic, le colosse des Ardennes, Autoroute A34 – Sortie 14, 08270, SAULCES MONCLIN
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Disclosure: My trip was sponsored by the Ardennes Tourist board. All opinions are my own.
Nicci OMara | 29th Aug 19
Such a beautiful part of the world. I fell in love with it a few years ago through a friend’s photos but didn’t realise there was so much to do with kids in tow. Thanks
Kaz & Ickle Pickle (@IcklePicklex) | 19th Jun 19
We have been to France a few times and want to explore more. This region looks amazing, thank you! Kaz
Zena's Suitcase | 17th Jun 19
It looks like such a pretty region, with lots of interesting things to see and do. I had not thought of visiting Ardennes before, but it’s definitely on my radar now.
Mini Travellers | 17th Jun 19
Such a comprehensive round up of things to do in this area. I would love to do this trip. All that food!
TraveLynn Family | 17th Jun 19
I absolutely loved following your adventures here on instagram. We’ve been to France so many times (in fact just got back again from France last night) but have never been to this region. We tend to drive as it’s just easier with young kids, and this place is now firmly on the radar for our next trip!
bavariansojourn | 17th Jun 19
One of the few things I was looking forward to about moving back to the UK was being able to visit France more! 😀 This is an area we haven’t yet explored, it looks amazing, and I will definitely be bookmarking this for any future visit! 🙂
Cerys | 17th Jun 19
That looks amazing – so very different than the South and Alps which are the only areas that we have been.
MrsS (@Otisandus_blog) | 16th Jun 19
Wow it looks so beautiful here!!!! Such gorgeous photos, loved following your trip, I particularly love the idea of canoeing down the Semoy river – heaven!
Katja Gaskell | 14th Jun 19
It really is such a beautiful corner of France! I can’t wait to return with my kids and do it all again. Obviously that includes both the outdoor adventure activities and eating sugar pie!
pigeonpairandme | 11th Jun 19
I want to return to see the Rock at 7 o’clock. I’ve since seen some great photos and they’re right, the light really is incredible! Such a great trip.