I’ve always found Greece fascinating: At the crossroads of the East and West and the cradle of western civilisation, the country offers so much for tourists of all ages. Sunshine, sandy beaches, ancient archaeological sites and fabulous food and drink are all things that come to mind when I think of Greece.
But I’ve mainly visited the islands – Crete, Santorini, Corfu and Mykonos. I’ve not spend much time on the mainland, with the exception of a short visit on my epic student European inter-rail trip. And that was to visit Athens and head straight to Piraeus to catch a ferry to the Islands!
So when we were asked by Vida Hospitality, who run luxury guest apartments, if we wanted to check out Nafplio as an ideal location for a family holiday, we thought we’d give it a go. I didn’t think I’d fall in love!
But of course I did, because Nafplio is one of Greece’s most romantic and beautiful cities (who knew?!) Nafplio is in the Peloponnese, 1 hour 45 minutes west of Athens by car. On the turquoise-coloured Argolis gulf and surrounded by majestic mountains, it gives you the feeling of being on one of the islands. There’s a gorgeous old town that is set in a hilly peninsula around 3 Venetian fortresses, lots of boutique shops, and beaches nearby.
Families will find lots to do here. Check out my recommendations below. You can follow my Instagram story about our trip to Nafplio here!
Be an un-tourist and just get lost in Nafplio’s old town, which is built on a hilly peninsula and topped by a castle. Start in Syntagma Square and wander through the cobblestone streets, narrow pathways and pedestrianized areas. There are pretty balconies to ‘oooh’ and ‘ahh’ at, and colourful Bougainvillea draped across the neo-classical buildings to photograph. Around every corner there are cafes, tavernas, and high-end shops to beckon you. Architecture-wise, there are two Turkish mosques, as well as other historical buildings and monuments (including one that housed the first Greek parliament). Nafplio’s old town very much has the feel of one of the islands. We explored it via horse carriage driven by local orchard farmer Christos Kostakis. The whole experience is magical.
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Walk down to the port and sit in any of the coffee shops there. Be a local and order a café freddo (espresso with cream). The food’s OK, but the views out to Bourtzi are amazing. Or you can pick one of the restaurants in Syntagma Square, order a drink, and watch the world go by! Even late into the night families will be out.
Make your way over to the port (in the old town) and you’ll be treated to a view of Bourtzi, a Venetian fortress that is set in the harbour on the tiny island of Agioi Theodoroi. Bourtzi is one of the most photographed sites in Nafplio. In the 1860s the town’s executioners of Palamidi prisoners used to live here. Before that it was connected to Akronafplia with a long metal chain to protect the port against invading ships. In high season you can visit via boat trip. We weren’t able to do this but we just loved admiring it!
At the top of the hill in Nafpilo – 216 meters above sea level – is Palamidi castle, a Venetian fortress built in the 1600s to house prisoners. You can famously get there via the 999 step path (there is much dispute over how many actual steps there are – but everyone agrees 999 sounds good!) Or you can do what we did – get a lift to the top of the hill and then walk down! Make sure to bring your camera as there are stunning views over Nafplio, the Argolic gulf and Mycenaean plain.
Another good place to take in the views over Nafplio (and to take photos) are from Acronafplia, a rocky peninsula that is the town’s second largest hill. The name means “at the edge of Nafplio”. You can take the small path from the port and walk around the Acronaflia hill to Arvanitia beach and from there walk all the way to the top. You can also just take the main path from the old town and reach the top. The sweeping views are breathtaking – many Greeks will propose to their future life partners here. Go at sunset for some of the best photos.
When the sun is about to set, take the Arvanitia Promenade – one of the most popular walks in town. It goes around the rocky landscape at the bottom of the Akronafplia hill and you are rewarded with sparkling blue water with green foliage around every corner. Bits of it reminded me of Hawaii (though the green is pine trees and cactus). Halfway around near the lighthouse are some steps that lead up to a chapel. It is where a secret Greek school was held for kids during the Turkish occupation. Start from the cafes on the port and walk to Arvanitia beach.
Of course Nafplio has its own museums to visit! There are 7 in total. The Archaeological Museum housed in one of the well-preserved Venetian structures in Europe, has ancient artefacts, toys, and jewellery. The War Museum follows the story of Greek state struggles and Folklore Museum is dedicated to the demonstration and conservation of Hellenic cultural activity.
Arvanitia beach is the in the south end of the town, and accessed through a short pine tree-lined path. It’s absolutely gorgeous! Sparkling blue water of the Argolis Gulf is framed by dramatic mountains. It has small shiny pebbles and rocks – so wear your flip-flops. There are low cliff nearby where you can dive and swim. In season there are sun loungers and umbrellas, café, toilets and changing rooms. Out of season it’s still a gorgeous beach to walk to Karanthona Beach.
You can drive to Karanthona Beach or walk there via a scenic path from Arvanitia beach. It should take around 45 minutes, or even less if you walk briskly. This 3 km beach is what you would expect from a Greek beach – soft sand, umbrellas and sun loungers for hire (8 euros for 2 loungers and an umbrella). It’s a Blue flag beach with calm waters perfect for swimming. We really enjoyed it here!
Tolo beach was the girls’ favourite – partly because there were lots of water sports available here. Tolo seems like an endless golden sand beach that goes on and on! There are sun loungers, parasols, water sports and cafes. Sparkling water with a long shallow bit that gradually gets deeper. It’s on the edge of Tolo, so you can walk into the town if you get bored (which you won’t). It’s about a 15-minute drive from Nafplio (a taxi about 15 euros).
Local orchard farmer Christos Kostakis is usually tending to his oranges, but he is also very passionate about horses and offers carriage rides to explore the local area with Gasby, a white Spanish horse, and Orlik, a black horse from the Netherlands. Start in the outskirts of Nafplio along the Ersinos River and then takes you to (and in!) the Argolis Gulf. If you are staying at with Vida-Hospitality they often offer this option as part of their package.
Nafplio has many adorable streets and alley ways with lots and lots of shopping. It’s not cheap – prices match any in upscale area in Europe — but it’s a must do. You can find everything from a few high street brands such as Achilleas Accessories (I bought a gorgeous dress there) to upscale boutiques and local crafts shops. The town is known for komboloyia – a circular chain with beads usually made of amber, and leather sandals. There are also wine shops, herbs, pasta, olive oil products.
Make sure to go to Koroniotis, a small winery not far from Nafplio. Kyriakos Koroniotis runs everything there – including the winemaking. And if you stay with Vida Hospitality they leave a bottle of Koroniotis for you to enjoy!
Even if archaeological sites are not your thing, you will be impressed with Epidaurus, a 4th century theatre, which is one of the best preserved in Greece. It is arguably the most famous in Greece, and everyone comes here to visit. In summer the national theatre holds a festival there with live performances of `Greek classic (often there is a summary given in English). This is so popular that tickets sell out very soon after released. The acoustics are amazing – test it out by standing centre stage and speaking to someone high up in the audience. It is definitely worth a visit!
And if architectural sites ARE your thing, then you must visit Mycanae and Tiryan because these 3,000 year-old sites are right on your doorstep! We didn’t do this as we ran out of time, but I am told that most people who visit Nafplio make their way to Mycenae UNESCO World Heritage sites. Mycenae is the only surviving monument of the Greek Bronze Age that remains in near perfect condition. Tiryns is famous for its impressive walls which Ancient Greeks didn’t believe were built by humans.
There’s so much to try! Greek cuisine is integral to Greek culture and its fresh ingredients (olive oil, garlic, onions, fennel, dates, lemons, fish) are a good examples of the healthy Mediterranean diet. We tried several and fell in love with several new foods, including “Bougatsa” – a breakfast phyllo pastry with a custard filling sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar (reminded me of Portuguese custard tarts) and “Tsouréki” – the traditional Easter sweet bread.
If you have a car, drive 30 minutes into the hills and explore a typical Greek mountain village. You can walk around and all the fresh air will make you want to have a meal at a local taverna. The village of Karia in the Artemisio mountain is a nice village to shoot for (its picteresque views were used in the setting of a film). Make sure to pronounce it correctly (care – ee – ahh) with a long “ahhhh” at the end as the other version is a rude word in Greek.
If you want to visit another example of a Greek theatre, you can visit Argos. The city of Argos dates back 7,000 years! Argos is another one of those Greek towns that has had it day in the limelight, but in decline now (like Corinth). But if you don’t want the crowds, you can literally walk into the site and walk around virtually on your own. There’s also Larissa castle.
If you love taking pics of cats you’ll be in kitty heaven in Greece. Stray cats aren’t considered a nuisance in Greece, but a natural co-habitant. And with mild weather and an abundance of food they are EVERYWHERE. My 14-year-old enjoyed taking these pics.
We stayed as guests of Vida Hospitality, who rent luxury apartment in the heart of Nafplio. The business is run by two brothers, Vasileios and Panagiotis Totsikas, who go out of their way to make sure their guests enjoy their visit. From spotless apartments in the middle of town to contacting you before your trip to make sure you have all the information you need, Vida Hospitality is a good choice for families.
Vida Residential Apartments Mpoumpoulinas 37, Ναύπλιον 211 00, Greece, +30 697 900 5260 https://vida-hospitality.com
Disclosure: Our stay was provided by Vida Hospitality for the purpose of this review.
Panjene | 10th Dec 19
Thanks for ideas in this article, It has helped me a lot.
TraveLynn Family | 14th Nov 19
Just beautiful! Can you believe I’ve never actually been to Greece?! Gosh I need to change that after reading this post.
globetotting globetotting | 12th Nov 19
I haven’t visited Greece since I was 18 so I am long due a return trip. I knew nothing about Nafplio before reading your post and now really want to visit! And not just for the food and for stocking up on leather sandals – honest!
Samantha Rickelton | 11th Nov 19
Wow I love how blue everything is! And those sunsets are beautiful. Checking out the Greek food would be at the top of my list.